second hand.jpg

Welcome to the DIY Watch Assembly Instruction

In the next two hours, you will dive into the world of watchmaking.

Please relax, take your time, and enjoy the fun of the craft of watchmaking!

 

Diver 40mm Assembly Instructions


Before starting, you can familiarize yourself with the tools and parts needed:

Tool kit content introduction


1: Dial and Movement Assembly Installation

Introduction: how to use a mechanical Dive watch with date

This is a brief introduction to the basics of a mechanical watch with date function, which might prove useful in your subsequent installation.

If you are already familiar with how a mechanical watch works, feel free to skip this video and proceed to the next one.

Content:

  • crown position for setting date

  • when to avoid setting date

  • how to determine AM/PM


1a. Watch Making Hygiene

Watch this tutorial before kick start your Chronograph watchmaking journey. An introduction to proper watch component care and assembly techniques, covering essential tips. Remember to wear your finger cots (2 sizes: Yellow ones bigger & Black ones smaller)

Content:

  • proper watch tools usage

  • proper watch component care

  • assembly techniques with essential tips


1b. Preparing case parts

Your watch case comes pre-assembled in order to keep it clean. This part will show you the individual parts of a case.

Content:

  • How to open case back

  • How to place parts


1c. Precautions during movement installation

Mechanical movement is the soul of a watch. It takes great care to install it. In this part, we’ll show you what to be mindful of when you install the movement.

Content:

  • Introduction of different parts of a movement

  • Areas you should not touch

  • Areas you can apply pressure on


1d. Removal and installation of stem and crown

Watch assembly and basic watch repair require you to install and remove the stem and crown. You will need to do this multiple times throughout this workshop.

Content:

  • Function of crown

  • How to remove and install crown


1e. Installing dial

Please choose below the type of dial you’re assembling:

In this part, we will install the dial. After assembling them, we will proceed to the next part, where we install the watch hands.

Content:

  • Install dial onto the movement

Your sandwich dial has a top and bottom layer. Normally they should come assembled in the kit, but if they fall off, you can reassemble them by aligning the feet and hole indicated by the arrows.

The following pictures indicate the movement dial holes (green spot):

NH35 movement

NH70 & NH72 movement

Optional: How to remove the dial

To remove the dial, simply use a screw driver, and insert it in between the dial and the movement or movement holder. Inserting the screw driver next to the dial feet will give you a better control. For Seiko NH movements, you can find slots on the movement holder for this purpose.

In this part, we will install the sapphire dial. After assembling them, we will proceed to the next part, where we install the watch hands.

Content:

  • Install sapphire dial onto the movement

  • Learn how to remove the dial safely


2: Hand Installation and Adjustment

hand installation.jpg

If this is your first time installing hands, it might be quite difficult. You can take a break first before continuing.

Installation and Adjustment of Minute and Hour Hands


【Important】Reminders:

  1. During installation, please avoid bending the post for second hand. Otherwise the function of the movement might be compromised.

  2. Repeated installation of watch hands may result in loose hands. Therefore please be careful with each installation, and reduce the need for re-installation.

  3. An extra set of hands is provided to you in case you need replacement.


2a. Installing hour and minute hand

We will install the hour and minute hands onto the dial and movement assembly.

Content:

  • How to pick up an hour hand

  • How to install a hand

  • Adjusting the level and direction of the hand


2b. (optional) Hands removal instruction

If you need to remove hour or minute hand, watch once before removing yours.

Content:

  • How to remove a whole set of hands

  • How to remove minute hand

Installing Second Hand

WARNING! This part is very challenging and poses risk of irriversible damage to the movement!

Tips for second hand installation:

Viewing the second hand from a horizontal angle will make the hand installation significantly easier.


Please choose whether you have the second hand installation helper tool or not:

Using the second hand installation helper tool can simplify the process of installing the second hand.

Content:

  • Introducing the helper tool

  • Using the helper tool to install a second hand

Installing Second Hand

【Important】Reminders:

  1. The second hand post is more fragile than that of hour and minute hands. Please be very careful with installation. A bent second hand post will affect the performance of movement.

  2. It is recommended to first use a loupe to see the smallest post clearly before attempting to install. If you were not careful with minute hand installation, the second hand post might have been bent. If so, it is impossible to install the second hand.

  3. Second hand must remain parallel with the dial. During installation and adjustment, be mindful to keep the second hand level.

  4. Instructional video contains detailed description. Please pay attention to its content in its entirety.


This is the most challenging part of this tutorial. We will now install the second hand onto the movement.

Content:

  • Learn multiple methods of installing a second hand

  • Identify correct and incorrect second hand installation


Second Hand Troubleshoot

Here we will cover most of the problems related to hand installation.

You have now finished hand installation. Please press the following button to return to the main section of the tutorial:


3: Installing Case and Other Parts

[Optional] Bleaching bezel insert

Before installing your case, you can opt to give your bezel insert a faded look by carrying out a process called “bleaching”. Learn how to do it via the button below:

3a. Cleaning parts and movement assembly

Instruction on how to clean parts and movement assembly

Content:

  • Using hand pump

  • Using rodico

  • Using peg wood


3b. Cleaning watch case

In this part, we will clean the watch case

Content:

  • Avoid touching the inside of case

  • Using rodico, peg wood, and suede for cleaning


3c. Installing chapter ring and watch case

In this part, we will install the movement assembly with hands into the case

Content:

  • Installing assembly

  • Aligning movement and stem

  • Installing case back

3d. (optional) Installing custom rotor

If you have customised a rotor, replace the factory default rotor with your custom rotor.

Content:

  • Finding the right screwdriver

  • Removing the rotor

  • Putting on the new rotor

For Seiko rotor:

3e. (optional) Switching bezels.

This video will outline the key steps to remove and install bezels compatible with our 40mm Divers.




If you need to reinstall any of the components, you can refer to this:


FINAL CHECK!

  1. Check for proper watch functions by winding and setting time. When hands are being turned, check if they come into contact with other hands or parts.

  2. Check for dust or dirt on crystal, hands, dial or other parts. If needed, you can remove the case to clean the inside.

  3. Check if the case back is securely fastened. If not, water resistance capability of the watch might be compromised.


Almost there!

Good job! You are now one step away from your DIY watch!