(with helper tool)

Tool kit content introduction

【Information】

The model used in the following videos may have a different design from the model on your hand,
but the assembly procedure is the same.

Introduction: How to use a GMT mechanical watch with bezels.

This is a brief introduction to the basics of the usage of a GMT mechanical watch, featuring both the NH34 and the Miyota 9075.

If you are already familiar with how the GMT watches work, feel free to skip this video and proceed to the next one.

Content:

• 00:36 Comparing the Office/Caller vs the Traveller/Flyer/True GMT

• 01:19 Why the "TRUE" GMT?

• 01:54 How to use your GMT watches

• 02:38 Setting the "Home" time

• 03:13 Quick setting the second timezone

• 04:01 Using the bezels

1a. Watch Making Hygiene

Watch this tutorial before kick start your Chronograph watchmaking journey. An introduction to proper watch component care and assembly techniques, covering essential tips. Remember to wear your finger cots (2 sizes: Yellow ones bigger & Black ones smaller)

Content:

• proper watch tools usage

• proper watch component care

• assembly techniques with essential tips

1b. Preparing case parts

Your watch case comes pre-assembled in order to keep it clean. This part will show you the individual parts of your case:

• Movement holder

• Chapter ring

• Chapter ring spacer

• Case back gasket

Content:

• How to open case back with case back opener

• How to place different parts

1c. Precautions during movement installation

Mechanical movement is the soul of a watch. It takes great care to install it. In this part, we’ll show you what to be mindful of when you install the movement.

Content:

• Introduction of different parts of a movement

• Areas you should not touch

• Areas you can apply pressure on

1d. Installing dial

Installing the hour wheel spring

Before installing the dial, you need to install the hour wheel spring onto the movement. Take note of which side is the top side, and place it onto the central hour wheel (highlighted below).

With the spring in place, you can proceed to the next guide on dial installation. The spring can easily fall off, so make sure it stays in place throughout the process.

With the hour wheel spring installed, we will install the dial. Please refer to the following video for instructions.

Content:

• Install dial onto the movement

The movement dial holes are highlighted below (green spot):

Optional: How to remove the dial

To remove the dial, simply use a screw driver, and insert it in between the dial and the movement or movement holder. Inserting the screw driver next to the dial feet will give you a better control. For Seiko NH movements, you can find slots on the movement holder for this purpose.

1e. Installing movement holder

In this part, we will install the movement holder onto the movement assembly.

Content:

• How to install the movement holder

Installation and Adjustment of
Minute and Hour Hands

【Important】Reminders:

1. During installation, please avoid bending the post for second hand. Otherwise the function of the movement might be compromised.

2. Repeated installation of watch hands may result in loose hands. Therefore please be careful with each installation, and reduce the need for re-installation.

3. An extra set of hands is provided to you in case you need replacement.

Hand setting tools

You will need hand setting tools of three sizes.

• Use the left tool with the largest opening for GMT hand

• Use the center tool for hour hand

• Use the right tool for minute and second hand. [The center second hand’s post goes into the opening of the tool. Therefore, align well before pressing down and after pressing down, avoid sideway motions to avoid bending the second hand’s post]

2a. Installing GMT, hour, and minute hand

We will install the GMT, hour, and minute hands onto the dial and movement assembly.

Content:

• Make sure the dial is installed correctly

• Make sure the movement and dial assembly is secured and have a good setup for hands installation process

• Identify the 3 hand setting tools

• How to install GMT, hour, and minute hands (check the alignment before installing another hand on top)

• Quality installation checking: date transaction between midnight and 5mins passed midnight

2b. (optional) Hands removal instruction

If you need to remove hour or minute hand, watch once before removing yours.

Content:

• How to remove a whole set of hands

• How to remove minute hand

2c. Installing second hand (with secondhand installation tool)

Using the secondhand installation helper tool can simplify the process of installing the second hand.

Content:

• Introducing the helper tool

• Using the helper tool to install a second hand

2d. (optional) Second Hand Troubleshoot

Here we will cover most of the problems related to secondhand installation.

You have now finished hands installation. You may press the following button to return to the top section of the tutorial:

[Optional] Bleaching bezel insert

Before installing your case, you can opt to give your bezel insert a faded look by carrying out a process called “bleaching”. Learn how to do it via the button below:

3a. Seiko NH movement stem and crown removal (with secondhand installation tool)

Removing stem and crown is an essential step for watchmaking and watch modification

Content:

• Stem and crown removal method with helper tool

• Stem and crown removal method with tweezers for Seiko NH movement

3b. Installing movement holder and chapter ring installation

In this part, we will install the movement holder and chapter ring before assembly into the watch case.

Content:

• Installing movement holder

• Installing movement holder

【Important】Reminder:

It’s time to check everything on the dial, watch hands, and watch case crystal for dust and smudges.
Clean them up with the techniques that was mentioned during the Watch Hygiene video.

3c. Installing the assembly into watch case

In this part, we will install the whole assembly into the watch case.

Content:

• Casing the whole assembly (*remember to clean the components before casing)

3d. (optional) Installing custom rotor

If you have customised a rotor, replace the factory default rotor with your custom rotor.

Content:

• Finding the right screwdriver

• Removing the rotor

• Putting on the new rotor

For Seiko rotor:

3e. (optional) Switching bezels.

This video will outline the key steps to remove and install bezels compatible with our 42mm Divers.

If you need to convert your bezel from uni-directional 60-click or 120-click to bi-directional 24-click (or vice versa), you will need to watch the following video.

If you need to reinstall any of the components, you can refer to this:

FINAL CHECK!

Almost there!

Good job! You are now one step away from your DIY watch!